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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:25   #60841
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To je za razmaženu mladež
Kiste iz koje si ti kripte izašao

U biti pa da, bio uskrs... pa si napokon ustao
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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:31   #60842
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Pa ono..više mi vrijede bočni senzori kad se isparkiravam nego tempomat.
Ozbiljno.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:33   #60843
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Ja vozim češće po 200-300km pa ne parkiram tako često kao starci
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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:37   #60844
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Odvozio neki dan 850 km
U 9 od 10 takvih vožnji uvjek te netko skoro umlati bar dvaput po vožnji..
Tak da je bar meni bolje bit full koncentriran na vožnju nego lagano "razmažen" raznim điđama
Koje te hoćeš nećeš malo opuste.

Al to je moj stav, svak ima svoje
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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:50   #60845
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Nego ide tko na WRC?
Ceremonijalni start danas odgledam, ostalo mislim da necu uhvatit vremena. Da je na sljemenu pa da mogu skoknut na sat dva gore i vratit se, bez da izgubim cijeli dan, mozda bi subotu/nedelju nesto i pogledao.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 17:58   #60846
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Nego ide tko na WRC?
Idem u nedjelju u Kumrovec
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:09   #60847
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Odvozio neki dan 850 km

U 9 od 10 takvih vožnji uvjek te netko skoro umlati bar dvaput po vožnji..

Tak da je bar meni bolje bit full koncentriran na vožnju nego lagano "razmažen" raznim điđama

Koje te hoćeš nećeš malo opuste.



Al to je moj stav, svak ima svoje
Ja sam skroz razmažen. Jedva volan držim . Ali kužim te
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:35   #60848
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Netko je zazivao gastarbajtere?

Teslu se toliko brani da ću od nedostatka posla prestati dolaziti na ovaj podforum :-p .

Ok, našem najnovijem medijskom celebrityju se smrznuo infotainment. Jedino što stvarno nije zgodno je da bez displeja ne možeš znati koliko brzo auto ide. S druge strane, čovjek se toliko šokirao i prepao da je prvo izvadio mobitel i počeo snimati, ne bi li zaradio koju kintu na nemilom događaju.


Volan, žmigavci, pedale, kočnice, tempomat su funkcijski smješteni negdje sasvim drugdje i sigurno su radili i dalje. Čak postoji odvojeni zvučnik za upozorenja, kako bi u tom slučaju znao da ti se npr. aktivira automatsko kočenje.


No hajdemo na vedrije teme, pogotovo od interesa za starog žderonju Jelca.

Uskršnji Putopis


Zaletio sam se za Uskrs s familijom u Tesli 3 od Štuttgarta do Samobora i uknjižio 2x770 km plus vozikanje po HR. Ovo je moje iskustvo:

Auto je na autoputu na domaćem terenu. Vozi kao na tračnicama (osim kad treba skretati), baš je ono "planted" kako bi rekli englezi. Tiho i ugodno iskustvo, čovjek ne primjeti da ide 160-170 dok ne pogleda na display.

Naravno, putovanje u vrijeme praznika se dobrim dijelom svodi na puzanje u koloni ili jednostavno praćenje tempa, ali kad se može potegnuti, nema straha.

Za putno punjenje smo koristili isključivo Superchargere. Infrastruktura u DE odlična, otprilike na svake dvije benzinske jedna instalacija punjača u veličinama od 6 do 40 (Ulm npr.) komada.

U Austriji se mreža malo prorijedila na instalaciju svakih 60 km (Salzburg, Flachau, Villach), Slovenija samo Ljubljana usput.

Na kraju smo odlučili preskakati punjenje u Sloveniji jer je Villach-Samobor izvedivo s nekih 80% baterije.

Predviđanje potrošnje, mapiranje puta i punjenja dosta konzervativno (uvijek šalje na nadopunjavanje sa 25-30%), ali nevjerojatno precizno i transparentno, tako da smo se usudili ganjati dolazak na punjače i sa <15% .


Stajanje, čekanje, gubitak vremena...

Imamo dvoje djece (6,8) tako da je svako putovanje putovanje izlomljeno s "Ej piša mi se", "kaka mi se", "kad ćemo jest" . Naše prirodne pauze su bile češće nego što bismo trebali stajati zbog auta.

Putem za HR smo u 3 takve prigode (trebalo je kupiti i vignettu) jednostavno uštekali auto. Na kraju je samo jedno stajanje bilo isključivo zbog punjenja (20 min).

Inače, brzina punjenja je mrak. Putem nazad smo stali u Villachu popiti kavu. 12%-94% je potrajalo ravno 30 minuta. Morao sam ustati i preparkirati auto da mi ne nabiju penale za zauzimanje mjesta.

U cijelom tom izletu (ca. 2000 km) smo potrošili ukupno 320 kWh, što nas je koštalo 110 Eura. Dovezli smo i valjda pun frunk i trunk (650 litara!). Prosjek potrošnje DE-HR je bio 169 Wh/km.

Jedna putna:

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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:46   #60849
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Sve to stoji ali auto je i dalje stroj koji se ne bi trebao smrzavati na taj način. Nije da ti je prestala raditi navigacija ili ne radi ti apple car play.
E da si ti onda bio u CX-5 samnom kad sam malo zaspao na kuplungu i crkao mi je motor u vožnji pa sam morao brzo samo stisnuti gumb da ga ponovno upali.

Nakon što se auto odma upalio više nije radio nijedan cajger, niti okretaji niti brzinomjer, pištalo je kao da su u autu svi unutra, a nitko nije vezan, radio više nije lovio stanice, pa ESP greška, malo ulja, slab akumulator, hladna tekućina za hlađenje, upozorenje za prelazak preko pune linije, TCS greška, ABS greška, TPMS greška, prazne gume, cijela tabla u autu je svijetlila kao božićno drvce tek kad sam mogao stat negdje za 20-25 kilometara i ugasit auto pa ponovno upalit je sve bilo kao da se ništa nije dogodilo
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:52   #60850
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Ček Cat,hoćeš reći da je električar upotrebljiv za obiteljske rute od koji 1000km i da ne trebaš par dana za te udaljenosti :-p
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:06   #60851
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Ček Cat,hoćeš reći da je električar upotrebljiv za obiteljske rute od koji 1000km i da ne trebaš par dana za te udaljenosti :-p
Iskreno, ocekivao sam stresnije prvo putovanje. Ovako je vise izivljavanje nad Elektroskepticima
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:13   #60852
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Putem za HR smo u 3 takve prigode (trebalo je kupiti i vignettu) jednostavno uštekali auto.
Isss, koje jeftine fore, a sve vinjete elektronicke i uzmes ih preko weba za pol minute...
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:18   #60853
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Isss, koje jeftine fore, a sve vinjete elektronicke i uzmes ih preko weba za pol minute...
Ako kupiš na vrijeme. Austrijanci trebaju jedno 2 tjedna fore, valjda da im propagira kroz sustav.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:39   #60854
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Ako kupiš na vrijeme. Austrijanci trebaju jedno 2 tjedna fore, valjda da im propagira kroz sustav.
Ne znam odakle ti ta (kriva) informacija, https://shop.asfinag.at/ sam od pocetka godine odradio nekoliko puta, zadnja je uzeta 27. 3. i doslovce se radi o instant postupku. Isto je za Zloveniju i Cesku.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:48   #60855
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Iskreno, ocekivao sam stresnije prvo putovanje. Ovako je vise izivljavanje nad Elektroskepticima
Potestiram jer si obečao kavu koja se nije dogodila. Sad ću te mrziti više nego 90% foruma Bubbu.

p.s odličan putopis. Like!

Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Hamm. 21.04.2022. u 19:53.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:57   #60856
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Ne znam odakle ti ta (kriva) informacija, https://shop.asfinag.at/ sam od pocetka godine odradio nekoliko puta, zadnja je uzeta 27. 3. i doslovce se radi o instant postupku. Isto je za Zloveniju i Cesku.
Ti si kliknuo jednom na:

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I onda zahvaljujuci kukijima, ne pita vise.

Okej, ti jesi poduzetnik. A da li ce netko kao privatna osoba imati problema, vjerojatno nece. Otpada samo onih 14 dana mogucnosti povrata.

Na istu foru funkcionira kad se kupuje vinjeta preko benzinske ili adaca (oni su firme), pa je odmah validna.

Osobno nisam jos probao tako kao poduzetnik kupovati. Stanem na nekoj od zadnjih benzinskih prije granice na wc, pa 50 centi (x broj putnika) bona iskoristim za vinjetu(e). Vozim dizlo, pa ne tocim toliko cesto, a na nesto drugo nemam trositi
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Campeonato. 21.04.2022. u 20:05.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 20:40   #60857
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Da
Tuneli i jedan smjer Karavanki ide odmah.
Za vinjete 14 dana prije moraš...


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Naravno, putovanje u vrijeme praznika se dobrim dijelom svodi na puzanje u koloni

Išao u četvrtak.
Prošlo kobog, samo vozi
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Jelc. 21.04.2022. u 20:54.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 22:48   #60858
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https://revijahak.hr/2022/04/21/izne...ih-automobila/

https://www.greenncap.com/mission-vision/

Mora da je laž i da su neki prljavni naftni novci u priči iza ovog.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 23:01   #60859
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Stari nabavio nova kola, možda potraju koji mjesec


Nije loše vozilo, praktički kao novo, od nekog lovaša, samo je 20" kotače i gume platija 5k eura

Iznenađujuće je ekonomično na otvorenoj cesti uz penzionersku vožnju
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Staro 21.04.2022., 23:08   #60860
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Elektricni Fiat 500 i Skoda 2.0 TDI trose isto energije? Zanimljivo. Nemrem nac link na studiju ali bilo bi zgodno vidjeti tocno sto spada pod koju kategoriju. Pogotovo me zanima "Fuel/energy Supply" i "Battery Production".
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Staro 21.04.2022., 23:09   #60861
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Okej, ti jesi poduzetnik.
Aha. Mea culpa onda. Znaci, boranija ceka 14 dana, a gospodarstvo pegla odmah?

To ne cini MackoUbicu nista manje elektro-gayem, JFTR.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 23:42   #60862
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https://revijahak.hr/2022/04/21/izne...ih-automobila/

https://www.greenncap.com/mission-vision/

Mora da je laž i da su neki prljavni naftni novci u priči iza ovog.
Jel to onaj rootan i modan rom u toj skodi?
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Staro 22.04.2022., 01:28   #60863
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Unfortunately, Alpina is dead, again!
In short, the engine suffered catastrophic damage due to the block not being sleeved properly.
After the test drive, I found metal shavings in the oil filter housing so I thought it spun a bearing. Before pulling the engine out, I decided to do a visual inspection of the cylinders and if everything looks good, do a compression test.
As you can see from the pictures, it didn't look good. Cylinders 4 & 8 are utterly destroyed so the engine needed to come out. Took me 5 hours to remove it (getting good at this).
Today I stripped the engine to a bare block, trying to understand what the hell happened and what caused the carnage. Since I didn't find a smoking gun, I took the block to a nearby machine shop and we measured all cylinder bores.

Conclusion: The engine failed cause there was not enough clearance between the pistons and the cylinder wall.
Our new cast iron sleeves are not cylindrical, but sorta conical, wider at the top, narrow towards the bottom. This is actually not that uncommon cause of the honing process.

However, piston-to-wall clearances are wrong and all over the place. We measured 0.04 mm on the top and then 0.02 mm towards the bottom of the cylinder.
Some show 0.04-05 mm and then you measure 90 degrees in the opposite direction and get 0.01 mm so they are also egg-shaped. Only cylinders 1 and 5 showed 0.02 mm all around.
Cylinder 4 that failed, shows 0.06-07 mm where the scratches are and 0.01 mm of clearance where there are no scoring marks which is far too little clearance.
So how did it fail? Well, pistons are made from aluminum and aluminum expands with heat, cast iron sleeves; not as much. Cylinders 4 & 8 that failed are at the back of the engine and they see the most heat as they get the least amount of cooling.
As I was driving, pistons expanded, cast iron sleeves didn't, then the pistons didn't have enough clearance so they made some by beating and scraping the crap out of cylinder walls.
Result: the block and 2 pistons are officially dead. Conrods are okay, bearings didn't spin but have some light marks from shavings circulating in the engine, crank is okay but has one or two smaller scratches.

Now, I knew about dissimilar metals and thermal expansion even before I sent the block for sleeving and of course the guy who sleeved the block knows about it as well. I even specifically discussed with Nenad on this topic when we talked and he told me not to worry, that he will leave enough clearance as he has experience with this.
I called Nenad today and told him what happened and what we found. He was pretty shocked, bummed out and taking responsibility for it. He told me that he would never let the block leave his shop which such measurements all over the place and that he spent extra time with my block cause he knew it'll be used in the video, so he measured everything million times and left clearances 0.025-0.030 mm on all cylinders. Clearly, that's not what we found and it's evident that the engine failed due to not enough piston-to-wall clearance. The local machinist told me that for cast iron sleeves in Alu block, the clearance should be a minimum of 0.05 mm.
You all know the lengths I went to find someone to do this job, Nenad came highly recommend, he's been sleeving Alusil blocks for 10 years, S62 E39 M5 engine that he's done for my friend is still going strong after 50k km, he's done so many engines Porsche, BMW, Audi, drift competition engines... and none failed. I just can't explain what happened here cause he is not an amateur. He told me he's been sleeving them with 0.025-0.030 mm clearance always without any failures and that he doesn't go more than that cause the engine can have high oil consumption. The clearance topic needs to be further discussed.
So what next? As I mentioned, Nenad without any hesitation or argument said he will make this right, to send him back the block and that he will try to source 2 pistons to replace the destroyed ones (no idea where he'll find pistons that only Alpina engine uses).
This is fair, but I just wasted a huge amount of time on this project, spent a ton of money on parts and now I need to buy one-time-use parts all over again: head gaskets, head bolts, rod bolts, rod bearings, all gaskets, disassemble and clean the heads...

And here's the thing, we all know how long it's going to take to get the block back. It'll be months of waiting, parts scattered everywhere and a dead unfinished car sitting in my lap. I have so many other projects that I want to get to, but can't because of this. I'm so preoccupied I don't even have time to do a simple oil change on E46.

Therefore, I want to get Alpina back on the road differently. I found a used Alpina H1 engine for sale in Poland, the price is 5k shipped to my door. It was Imported from Japan, supposedly only 80k km (50k miles). No proof though, as with all used engines. Japanese cars typically do come with low mileage and great maintenance so it's not impossible and from the outside, it looks clean, a lot cleaner than what I removed from project Chicago.

But anyway, mileage on a used engine is not relevant, the condition is. The guy told me they checked the compression and it was 12 bars across all 8 cylinders. They offer 2 week warranty on the engine.
I explained that, upon receiving the engine, I would do a visual inspection of the cylinders, compression test and leak down test. If something is not good, it's going back and he agreed.
If the engine is good, then the plan is to use that block. Leave the pistons and cylinders alone, replace the rod bearings, use my refurbished heads and bolt all new parts that I bought to it (chains & guides, water pump, injectors, etc...). This way, I can have the Alpina back on the road within a week or two.
In the meantime, I will send my current block back to Nenad and let him do his thing, sort it out and have that block as a backup for whenever the other engine inevitably blows up.
I gotta say, I couldn't sleep these past few days thinking I messed up something during the engine assembly, going over everything in my mind. Even though the whole situation sucks, knowing I didn't make a mistake when it putting it back together does make it easier.
That's the update for now. I'll start editing the next episode tomorrow and keep you posted on how it turns out with the used engine.


-->
Ako nekog zanima updejt od Sretena i Alpina B7 motora...spojler alert jel






Unfortunately, Alpina is dead, again!
In short, the engine suffered catastrophic damage due to the block not being sleeved properly.
After the test drive, I found metal shavings in the oil filter housing so I thought it spun a bearing. Before pulling the engine out, I decided to do a visual inspection of the cylinders and if everything looks good, do a compression test.
As you can see from the pictures, it didn't look good. Cylinders 4 & 8 are utterly destroyed so the engine needed to come out. Took me 5 hours to remove it (getting good at this).
Today I stripped the engine to a bare block, trying to understand what the hell happened and what caused the carnage. Since I didn't find a smoking gun, I took the block to a nearby machine shop and we measured all cylinder bores.

Conclusion: The engine failed cause there was not enough clearance between the pistons and the cylinder wall.
Our new cast iron sleeves are not cylindrical, but sorta conical, wider at the top, narrow towards the bottom. This is actually not that uncommon cause of the honing process.

However, piston-to-wall clearances are wrong and all over the place. We measured 0.04 mm on the top and then 0.02 mm towards the bottom of the cylinder.
Some show 0.04-05 mm and then you measure 90 degrees in the opposite direction and get 0.01 mm so they are also egg-shaped. Only cylinders 1 and 5 showed 0.02 mm all around.
Cylinder 4 that failed, shows 0.06-07 mm where the scratches are and 0.01 mm of clearance where there are no scoring marks which is far too little clearance.
So how did it fail? Well, pistons are made from aluminum and aluminum expands with heat, cast iron sleeves; not as much. Cylinders 4 & 8 that failed are at the back of the engine and they see the most heat as they get the least amount of cooling.
As I was driving, pistons expanded, cast iron sleeves didn't, then the pistons didn't have enough clearance so they made some by beating and scraping the crap out of cylinder walls.
Result: the block and 2 pistons are officially dead. Conrods are okay, bearings didn't spin but have some light marks from shavings circulating in the engine, crank is okay but has one or two smaller scratches.

Now, I knew about dissimilar metals and thermal expansion even before I sent the block for sleeving and of course the guy who sleeved the block knows about it as well. I even specifically discussed with Nenad on this topic when we talked and he told me not to worry, that he will leave enough clearance as he has experience with this.
I called Nenad today and told him what happened and what we found. He was pretty shocked, bummed out and taking responsibility for it. He told me that he would never let the block leave his shop which such measurements all over the place and that he spent extra time with my block cause he knew it'll be used in the video, so he measured everything million times and left clearances 0.025-0.030 mm on all cylinders. Clearly, that's not what we found and it's evident that the engine failed due to not enough piston-to-wall clearance. The local machinist told me that for cast iron sleeves in Alu block, the clearance should be a minimum of 0.05 mm.
You all know the lengths I went to find someone to do this job, Nenad came highly recommend, he's been sleeving Alusil blocks for 10 years, S62 E39 M5 engine that he's done for my friend is still going strong after 50k km, he's done so many engines Porsche, BMW, Audi, drift competition engines... and none failed. I just can't explain what happened here cause he is not an amateur. He told me he's been sleeving them with 0.025-0.030 mm clearance always without any failures and that he doesn't go more than that cause the engine can have high oil consumption. The clearance topic needs to be further discussed.
So what next? As I mentioned, Nenad without any hesitation or argument said he will make this right, to send him back the block and that he will try to source 2 pistons to replace the destroyed ones (no idea where he'll find pistons that only Alpina engine uses).
This is fair, but I just wasted a huge amount of time on this project, spent a ton of money on parts and now I need to buy one-time-use parts all over again: head gaskets, head bolts, rod bolts, rod bearings, all gaskets, disassemble and clean the heads...

And here's the thing, we all know how long it's going to take to get the block back. It'll be months of waiting, parts scattered everywhere and a dead unfinished car sitting in my lap. I have so many other projects that I want to get to, but can't because of this. I'm so preoccupied I don't even have time to do a simple oil change on E46.

Therefore, I want to get Alpina back on the road differently. I found a used Alpina H1 engine for sale in Poland, the price is 5k shipped to my door. It was Imported from Japan, supposedly only 80k km (50k miles). No proof though, as with all used engines. Japanese cars typically do come with low mileage and great maintenance so it's not impossible and from the outside, it looks clean, a lot cleaner than what I removed from project Chicago.

But anyway, mileage on a used engine is not relevant, the condition is. The guy told me they checked the compression and it was 12 bars across all 8 cylinders. They offer 2 week warranty on the engine.
I explained that, upon receiving the engine, I would do a visual inspection of the cylinders, compression test and leak down test. If something is not good, it's going back and he agreed.
If the engine is good, then the plan is to use that block. Leave the pistons and cylinders alone, replace the rod bearings, use my refurbished heads and bolt all new parts that I bought to it (chains & guides, water pump, injectors, etc...). This way, I can have the Alpina back on the road within a week or two.
In the meantime, I will send my current block back to Nenad and let him do his thing, sort it out and have that block as a backup for whenever the other engine inevitably blows up.
I gotta say, I couldn't sleep these past few days thinking I messed up something during the engine assembly, going over everything in my mind. Even though the whole situation sucks, knowing I didn't make a mistake when it putting it back together does make it easier.
That's the update for now. I'll start editing the next episode tomorrow and keep you posted on how it turns out with the used engine.


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Staro 22.04.2022., 02:07   #60864
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Jučer vidjeh na Scenicu dimenziju guma 195/55R20.
Idem pogledati cijene kad ono jeftinija od moje 225/45/R18.
Svašta
Mislim da je tu ona caka kako je Reno dogovorio sa svim relevantnim proizvođačima guma, da sad ne nabrajam, kako će upravo ta dimenzija biti jeftinija bez obzira na veličinu.... to što je pod jeftinije ispalo 200€ po gumi (at the time, ne znam stvarno koliko je sada) je drugi par rukava.

Ono malo gov... BMW I3 (stvarno nemam ništa protiv njih, osim što nemaju oči), ali slučajno sam naletio da set tih nakaradnih 20" 155 ili tako nešto koštaju ravno soma€.

Gume
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Staro 22.04.2022., 07:10   #60865
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Ok, al i3 i npr Smart nisu normalni auti pa me nečude njihove dimenzije. Al Scenic je normalan auto.
800-900kn je Continental 195/55/20 što je za 20 cola relativno jeftino.
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Staro 22.04.2022., 08:36   #60866
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https://revijahak.hr/2022/04/21/izne...ih-automobila/

https://www.greenncap.com/mission-vision/

Mora da je laž i da su neki prljavni naftni novci u priči iza ovog.
E moj buduci kavopijo, vidis da skrivaju formule i izvore podataka kao zmija noge ;-)

Ajde da ja probam, kao energeticar s FERa, bivsi vlasnik Skode Octavije 2.0 TDI i po TCOu usporedivog elektricnog vozala.

Pocetni parametri:
- potrosnju za oba vozila cu uzeti iz svoje osobne statistike, za rutu od DE-HR (ovo debelo ide na mlin skodi jer u gradskoj voznji elektricari 50% bolje stoje)
- racunam s 95% ucinkovitim AC/DC pretvorbama na punjacu jer sam mjerio za Teslu (zapravo sam izmjerio gubitke ispod 5%)
- dizel se u Skodi magicno stvori u rezervoaru i da ne postoji energetski intenzivni lanac dobave i prerade nafte
- racunam da su gubitci u el. mrezi od izvora do uticnice 7% (izvor https://data.worldbank.org/indicator...S?locations=EU)
- dizel ima 9.7 khw/l gustocu primarne energije
- sve cu skalirati na 250.000 km (sto je za mene zivotni vijek auta)
- racunam da sva struja dolazi iznajprljavije termoelektrane s eta 40%
- racunam da nijedan elektron u narednih 20 godina nece doci iz vjetra ili sunca


Skoda ce potrositi:
(6.5l/100km) x (250.000km) x (9.7 kWh/l) = 157625 kWh = 158 MWh primarne energije


Tesla ce potrositi
(169 Wh/km) x (250.000km) x (1.05) x (1.07) x (1.40) = 66455 kWh = 67 MWh primarne energije


Ovo je najbolje sto mogu bez jutarnje kave, ali trebalo bi biti dostatno za nase srednjoskolska-fizika izazvane Autoklub kolege i lobiste. Molim da javis u centralu ;-)

Edit: MWh sam u oba slucaja zaokruzio na gore
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: CatKiller. 22.04.2022. u 09:02.
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Staro 22.04.2022., 09:39   #60867
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E moj Cat, ali za napravit bateriju u tvojoj tesli treba jos barem 100 MWh energije :P kako bi inace dizel bio bolji...
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Staro 22.04.2022., 09:50   #60868
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E moj Cat, ali za napravit bateriju u tvojoj tesli treba jos barem 100 MWh energije :P kako bi inace dizel bio bolji...
Renesise drzi se bolje WRCa .

Ovo je samo fact-check za njihove navode o potrosnji primarne energije u ciklusu koristenja. Iako, koliko moja zena odmrzava auto na daljinski preko zime, brzo smo mi na 200 MWh .

Energije za proizvodnju se uopce nisam dotakao. Tu su glavni izvori neka svedska studija stara 20 godina koja se konstantno reciklira u ADAC krugovima, u potpunom raskoraku s danasnjim proizvodnim procesima.

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Stari nabavio nova kola, možda potraju koji mjesec


Nije loše vozilo, praktički kao novo, od nekog lovaša, samo je 20" kotače i gume platija 5k eura

Iznenađujuće je ekonomično na otvorenoj cesti uz penzionersku vožnju

Da li je to onaj prvi Cayenne? U Stuttgartu popularno zvani Porsche za kucanice .
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: CatKiller. 22.04.2022. u 09:57.
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Staro 22.04.2022., 10:04   #60869
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E moj buduci kavopijo, vidis da skrivaju formule i izvore podataka kao zmija noge ;-)


Misliš? Čak je i site izrazito površan bez deepdive podataka s kojima bi slika bila puno jasnija.

https://www.greenncap.com/lca-explained/

https://www.greenncap.com/road-tests/
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Staro 22.04.2022., 10:46   #60870
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E moj Cat, ali za napravit bateriju u tvojoj tesli treba jos barem 100 MWh energije :P kako bi inace dizel bio bolji...
A da ne pričamo o pokolju ubogih fledermausa da bi hipsteraj imao kaj vozit
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