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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:18   #60901
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al se nekad dobro jelo...
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Isss, koje jeftine fore, a sve vinjete elektronicke i uzmes ih preko weba za pol minute...
Ako kupiš na vrijeme. Austrijanci trebaju jedno 2 tjedna fore, valjda da im propagira kroz sustav.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:39   #60902
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Ako kupiš na vrijeme. Austrijanci trebaju jedno 2 tjedna fore, valjda da im propagira kroz sustav.
Ne znam odakle ti ta (kriva) informacija, https://shop.asfinag.at/ sam od pocetka godine odradio nekoliko puta, zadnja je uzeta 27. 3. i doslovce se radi o instant postupku. Isto je za Zloveniju i Cesku.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:48   #60903
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Iskreno, ocekivao sam stresnije prvo putovanje. Ovako je vise izivljavanje nad Elektroskepticima
Potestiram jer si obečao kavu koja se nije dogodila. Sad ću te mrziti više nego 90% foruma Bubbu.

p.s odličan putopis. Like!

Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Hamm. 21.04.2022. u 18:53.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 18:57   #60904
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Ne znam odakle ti ta (kriva) informacija, https://shop.asfinag.at/ sam od pocetka godine odradio nekoliko puta, zadnja je uzeta 27. 3. i doslovce se radi o instant postupku. Isto je za Zloveniju i Cesku.
Ti si kliknuo jednom na:

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Als Unternehmer ist die Digitale Vignette bzw. die Digitale Streckenmaut-Jahreskarte sofort gültig. Ihr Rücktrittsrecht bei Online-Käufen entfällt. Mehr Infos
I onda zahvaljujuci kukijima, ne pita vise.

Okej, ti jesi poduzetnik. A da li ce netko kao privatna osoba imati problema, vjerojatno nece. Otpada samo onih 14 dana mogucnosti povrata.

Na istu foru funkcionira kad se kupuje vinjeta preko benzinske ili adaca (oni su firme), pa je odmah validna.

Osobno nisam jos probao tako kao poduzetnik kupovati. Stanem na nekoj od zadnjih benzinskih prije granice na wc, pa 50 centi (x broj putnika) bona iskoristim za vinjetu(e). Vozim dizlo, pa ne tocim toliko cesto, a na nesto drugo nemam trositi
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Campeonato. 21.04.2022. u 19:05.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 19:40   #60905
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Da
Tuneli i jedan smjer Karavanki ide odmah.
Za vinjete 14 dana prije moraš...


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Naravno, putovanje u vrijeme praznika se dobrim dijelom svodi na puzanje u koloni

Išao u četvrtak.
Prošlo kobog, samo vozi
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Zadnje izmijenjeno od: Jelc. 21.04.2022. u 19:54.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 21:48   #60906
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https://revijahak.hr/2022/04/21/izne...ih-automobila/

https://www.greenncap.com/mission-vision/

Mora da je laž i da su neki prljavni naftni novci u priči iza ovog.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 22:01   #60907
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Nije loše vozilo, praktički kao novo, od nekog lovaša, samo je 20" kotače i gume platija 5k eura

Iznenađujuće je ekonomično na otvorenoj cesti uz penzionersku vožnju
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Staro 21.04.2022., 22:08   #60908
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Elektricni Fiat 500 i Skoda 2.0 TDI trose isto energije? Zanimljivo. Nemrem nac link na studiju ali bilo bi zgodno vidjeti tocno sto spada pod koju kategoriju. Pogotovo me zanima "Fuel/energy Supply" i "Battery Production".
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Staro 21.04.2022., 22:09   #60909
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Okej, ti jesi poduzetnik.
Aha. Mea culpa onda. Znaci, boranija ceka 14 dana, a gospodarstvo pegla odmah?

To ne cini MackoUbicu nista manje elektro-gayem, JFTR.
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Staro 21.04.2022., 22:42   #60910
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https://revijahak.hr/2022/04/21/izne...ih-automobila/

https://www.greenncap.com/mission-vision/

Mora da je laž i da su neki prljavni naftni novci u priči iza ovog.
Jel to onaj rootan i modan rom u toj skodi?
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Staro 22.04.2022., 00:28   #60911
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Unfortunately, Alpina is dead, again!
In short, the engine suffered catastrophic damage due to the block not being sleeved properly.
After the test drive, I found metal shavings in the oil filter housing so I thought it spun a bearing. Before pulling the engine out, I decided to do a visual inspection of the cylinders and if everything looks good, do a compression test.
As you can see from the pictures, it didn't look good. Cylinders 4 & 8 are utterly destroyed so the engine needed to come out. Took me 5 hours to remove it (getting good at this).
Today I stripped the engine to a bare block, trying to understand what the hell happened and what caused the carnage. Since I didn't find a smoking gun, I took the block to a nearby machine shop and we measured all cylinder bores.

Conclusion: The engine failed cause there was not enough clearance between the pistons and the cylinder wall.
Our new cast iron sleeves are not cylindrical, but sorta conical, wider at the top, narrow towards the bottom. This is actually not that uncommon cause of the honing process.

However, piston-to-wall clearances are wrong and all over the place. We measured 0.04 mm on the top and then 0.02 mm towards the bottom of the cylinder.
Some show 0.04-05 mm and then you measure 90 degrees in the opposite direction and get 0.01 mm so they are also egg-shaped. Only cylinders 1 and 5 showed 0.02 mm all around.
Cylinder 4 that failed, shows 0.06-07 mm where the scratches are and 0.01 mm of clearance where there are no scoring marks which is far too little clearance.
So how did it fail? Well, pistons are made from aluminum and aluminum expands with heat, cast iron sleeves; not as much. Cylinders 4 & 8 that failed are at the back of the engine and they see the most heat as they get the least amount of cooling.
As I was driving, pistons expanded, cast iron sleeves didn't, then the pistons didn't have enough clearance so they made some by beating and scraping the crap out of cylinder walls.
Result: the block and 2 pistons are officially dead. Conrods are okay, bearings didn't spin but have some light marks from shavings circulating in the engine, crank is okay but has one or two smaller scratches.

Now, I knew about dissimilar metals and thermal expansion even before I sent the block for sleeving and of course the guy who sleeved the block knows about it as well. I even specifically discussed with Nenad on this topic when we talked and he told me not to worry, that he will leave enough clearance as he has experience with this.
I called Nenad today and told him what happened and what we found. He was pretty shocked, bummed out and taking responsibility for it. He told me that he would never let the block leave his shop which such measurements all over the place and that he spent extra time with my block cause he knew it'll be used in the video, so he measured everything million times and left clearances 0.025-0.030 mm on all cylinders. Clearly, that's not what we found and it's evident that the engine failed due to not enough piston-to-wall clearance. The local machinist told me that for cast iron sleeves in Alu block, the clearance should be a minimum of 0.05 mm.
You all know the lengths I went to find someone to do this job, Nenad came highly recommend, he's been sleeving Alusil blocks for 10 years, S62 E39 M5 engine that he's done for my friend is still going strong after 50k km, he's done so many engines Porsche, BMW, Audi, drift competition engines... and none failed. I just can't explain what happened here cause he is not an amateur. He told me he's been sleeving them with 0.025-0.030 mm clearance always without any failures and that he doesn't go more than that cause the engine can have high oil consumption. The clearance topic needs to be further discussed.
So what next? As I mentioned, Nenad without any hesitation or argument said he will make this right, to send him back the block and that he will try to source 2 pistons to replace the destroyed ones (no idea where he'll find pistons that only Alpina engine uses).
This is fair, but I just wasted a huge amount of time on this project, spent a ton of money on parts and now I need to buy one-time-use parts all over again: head gaskets, head bolts, rod bolts, rod bearings, all gaskets, disassemble and clean the heads...

And here's the thing, we all know how long it's going to take to get the block back. It'll be months of waiting, parts scattered everywhere and a dead unfinished car sitting in my lap. I have so many other projects that I want to get to, but can't because of this. I'm so preoccupied I don't even have time to do a simple oil change on E46.

Therefore, I want to get Alpina back on the road differently. I found a used Alpina H1 engine for sale in Poland, the price is 5k shipped to my door. It was Imported from Japan, supposedly only 80k km (50k miles). No proof though, as with all used engines. Japanese cars typically do come with low mileage and great maintenance so it's not impossible and from the outside, it looks clean, a lot cleaner than what I removed from project Chicago.

But anyway, mileage on a used engine is not relevant, the condition is. The guy told me they checked the compression and it was 12 bars across all 8 cylinders. They offer 2 week warranty on the engine.
I explained that, upon receiving the engine, I would do a visual inspection of the cylinders, compression test and leak down test. If something is not good, it's going back and he agreed.
If the engine is good, then the plan is to use that block. Leave the pistons and cylinders alone, replace the rod bearings, use my refurbished heads and bolt all new parts that I bought to it (chains & guides, water pump, injectors, etc...). This way, I can have the Alpina back on the road within a week or two.
In the meantime, I will send my current block back to Nenad and let him do his thing, sort it out and have that block as a backup for whenever the other engine inevitably blows up.
I gotta say, I couldn't sleep these past few days thinking I messed up something during the engine assembly, going over everything in my mind. Even though the whole situation sucks, knowing I didn't make a mistake when it putting it back together does make it easier.
That's the update for now. I'll start editing the next episode tomorrow and keep you posted on how it turns out with the used engine.


-->
Ako nekog zanima updejt od Sretena i Alpina B7 motora...spojler alert jel






Unfortunately, Alpina is dead, again!
In short, the engine suffered catastrophic damage due to the block not being sleeved properly.
After the test drive, I found metal shavings in the oil filter housing so I thought it spun a bearing. Before pulling the engine out, I decided to do a visual inspection of the cylinders and if everything looks good, do a compression test.
As you can see from the pictures, it didn't look good. Cylinders 4 & 8 are utterly destroyed so the engine needed to come out. Took me 5 hours to remove it (getting good at this).
Today I stripped the engine to a bare block, trying to understand what the hell happened and what caused the carnage. Since I didn't find a smoking gun, I took the block to a nearby machine shop and we measured all cylinder bores.

Conclusion: The engine failed cause there was not enough clearance between the pistons and the cylinder wall.
Our new cast iron sleeves are not cylindrical, but sorta conical, wider at the top, narrow towards the bottom. This is actually not that uncommon cause of the honing process.

However, piston-to-wall clearances are wrong and all over the place. We measured 0.04 mm on the top and then 0.02 mm towards the bottom of the cylinder.
Some show 0.04-05 mm and then you measure 90 degrees in the opposite direction and get 0.01 mm so they are also egg-shaped. Only cylinders 1 and 5 showed 0.02 mm all around.
Cylinder 4 that failed, shows 0.06-07 mm where the scratches are and 0.01 mm of clearance where there are no scoring marks which is far too little clearance.
So how did it fail? Well, pistons are made from aluminum and aluminum expands with heat, cast iron sleeves; not as much. Cylinders 4 & 8 that failed are at the back of the engine and they see the most heat as they get the least amount of cooling.
As I was driving, pistons expanded, cast iron sleeves didn't, then the pistons didn't have enough clearance so they made some by beating and scraping the crap out of cylinder walls.
Result: the block and 2 pistons are officially dead. Conrods are okay, bearings didn't spin but have some light marks from shavings circulating in the engine, crank is okay but has one or two smaller scratches.

Now, I knew about dissimilar metals and thermal expansion even before I sent the block for sleeving and of course the guy who sleeved the block knows about it as well. I even specifically discussed with Nenad on this topic when we talked and he told me not to worry, that he will leave enough clearance as he has experience with this.
I called Nenad today and told him what happened and what we found. He was pretty shocked, bummed out and taking responsibility for it. He told me that he would never let the block leave his shop which such measurements all over the place and that he spent extra time with my block cause he knew it'll be used in the video, so he measured everything million times and left clearances 0.025-0.030 mm on all cylinders. Clearly, that's not what we found and it's evident that the engine failed due to not enough piston-to-wall clearance. The local machinist told me that for cast iron sleeves in Alu block, the clearance should be a minimum of 0.05 mm.
You all know the lengths I went to find someone to do this job, Nenad came highly recommend, he's been sleeving Alusil blocks for 10 years, S62 E39 M5 engine that he's done for my friend is still going strong after 50k km, he's done so many engines Porsche, BMW, Audi, drift competition engines... and none failed. I just can't explain what happened here cause he is not an amateur. He told me he's been sleeving them with 0.025-0.030 mm clearance always without any failures and that he doesn't go more than that cause the engine can have high oil consumption. The clearance topic needs to be further discussed.
So what next? As I mentioned, Nenad without any hesitation or argument said he will make this right, to send him back the block and that he will try to source 2 pistons to replace the destroyed ones (no idea where he'll find pistons that only Alpina engine uses).
This is fair, but I just wasted a huge amount of time on this project, spent a ton of money on parts and now I need to buy one-time-use parts all over again: head gaskets, head bolts, rod bolts, rod bearings, all gaskets, disassemble and clean the heads...

And here's the thing, we all know how long it's going to take to get the block back. It'll be months of waiting, parts scattered everywhere and a dead unfinished car sitting in my lap. I have so many other projects that I want to get to, but can't because of this. I'm so preoccupied I don't even have time to do a simple oil change on E46.

Therefore, I want to get Alpina back on the road differently. I found a used Alpina H1 engine for sale in Poland, the price is 5k shipped to my door. It was Imported from Japan, supposedly only 80k km (50k miles). No proof though, as with all used engines. Japanese cars typically do come with low mileage and great maintenance so it's not impossible and from the outside, it looks clean, a lot cleaner than what I removed from project Chicago.

But anyway, mileage on a used engine is not relevant, the condition is. The guy told me they checked the compression and it was 12 bars across all 8 cylinders. They offer 2 week warranty on the engine.
I explained that, upon receiving the engine, I would do a visual inspection of the cylinders, compression test and leak down test. If something is not good, it's going back and he agreed.
If the engine is good, then the plan is to use that block. Leave the pistons and cylinders alone, replace the rod bearings, use my refurbished heads and bolt all new parts that I bought to it (chains & guides, water pump, injectors, etc...). This way, I can have the Alpina back on the road within a week or two.
In the meantime, I will send my current block back to Nenad and let him do his thing, sort it out and have that block as a backup for whenever the other engine inevitably blows up.
I gotta say, I couldn't sleep these past few days thinking I messed up something during the engine assembly, going over everything in my mind. Even though the whole situation sucks, knowing I didn't make a mistake when it putting it back together does make it easier.
That's the update for now. I'll start editing the next episode tomorrow and keep you posted on how it turns out with the used engine.


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Staro 22.04.2022., 01:07   #60912
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Jučer vidjeh na Scenicu dimenziju guma 195/55R20.
Idem pogledati cijene kad ono jeftinija od moje 225/45/R18.
Svašta
Mislim da je tu ona caka kako je Reno dogovorio sa svim relevantnim proizvođačima guma, da sad ne nabrajam, kako će upravo ta dimenzija biti jeftinija bez obzira na veličinu.... to što je pod jeftinije ispalo 200€ po gumi (at the time, ne znam stvarno koliko je sada) je drugi par rukava.

Ono malo gov... BMW I3 (stvarno nemam ništa protiv njih, osim što nemaju oči), ali slučajno sam naletio da set tih nakaradnih 20" 155 ili tako nešto koštaju ravno soma€.

Gume